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SolarAttic, Inc. is a Minnesota Corporation engaged in the research, development, and
manufacturing of products that use attics as energy vehicles. The company’s first product heats
swimming pools using attic heat derived from solar radiation. The company’s second product
provides supplementary space heating. The company’s other product lines, which are under
development, are an attic based solar domestic hot water heating system and ventilation system.
The company has already demonstrated a working prototype of both systems and is awaiting
additional developmental expansion capital to complete these products. All three products are
covered by the company’s FOUR U.S. Patents.
Pool Heat Company, a proprietorship, existed from 1/1/84 to 8/10/86. On 8/11/86, the
company incorporated itself as Attic Technology, Inc. On 7/15/93, the company changed its name
to SolarAttic, Inc.
The Company’s banking reference is Gerry Vidmar, Assistant Vice President, Wells Fargo
Bank, Brooklyn Boulevard Office, 8041 Brooklyn Boulevard, Brooklyn Park, Minnesota 55445,
phone (763) 493-7807 and Fax (763) 493-4040. The Company is registered with the Securities
Division of the State of Minnesota and also has filings with the Secretary of State. SolarAttic’s
corporate charter is MN 5H-1049.
All parts used on the PCS1 are UL Listed except the cabinet’s sheet metal parts. For
example, our heat transfer coil is UL Listed with the following designation: SR/M-58E
It has a 20 year design life under optimum conditions. The primary life factor is the pool's
water chemistry. Pool water properly maintained should not smell of chlorine, should be crystal
clear visually, and should be potable water [drinkable]. To the extent the pool's water is not like
this, it will shorten the life of all of the pool's support equipment in addition to shortening the life
expectancy of the PCS1. The PCS1 has extended life characteristics when compared to heat
pumps or fossil fuel heaters.
220VAC outlet is required. Full load amperage is 1.8 amps. A separate, 15-amp circuit
for the PCS1 is recommended. The PCS1 simply “plugs” in. Power is typically derived through
the temperature controller, which automates the pool heating.
Under extreme test conditions, very little condensate was evidenced. Under normal
conditions, the bottom pan may collect minor amounts of condensate. It will then evaporate. This
same technique is used on modern frost-free refrigerators. The PCS1 provides for this collection
and evaporation when mounted upright. In areas where concern exists, the bottom pan can be
tapped and drained off.
PCS1 which exchanges free solar heat inexpensively from the attic into the swimming
pool, a flowreversal™ valve that ensures the pool is efficient in its heat needs [for deep pools] and
a pool blanket to minimize losses during extended periods of non use [or during non-heating hours
in early and late season].
The principles of operation are similar but the radiator was designed for cars. The PCS1
heat exchanger was custom designed specifically for the needs of swimming pools.
All quoted BTU ratings are sensible heat figures only. Delta temperatures can be measured
with temperature sensors & sensible heat calculated. BTU figures are significantly higher if latent
heat figures were included. BTU figures are higher under high humidity conditions as humid air
contains more heat. BTU figures were calculated and measured under conditions of 20-30 %
relative humidity.
A) In a walk-in attic, no problem, just carry it up. B) In an attic with a 2x2-foot access,
enlarge the access to 2x4 feet. C) Cut into the end of the house at the peak to access the attic, then
cover hole with a vent grille [found at lumberyards & building stores]. D) Cut a new access hole
into attic from the inside; the unit fits between standard 24" OC [on center] trusses. E)
Disassemble the unit and reassemble it in the attic [not recommended; but, can be done]. F) Cut a
new access hole in the roof and mount the PCS1 on the roof with a rain cover & condensate drain
provision.
Note: the PCS1 mounts in any direction, but any direction other than horizontal requires a
condensate drain provision. Use your imagination and create a list of 10 different ways for each
new installation. Then select the best way, keeping the plumbing considerations in mind. This is
called possibility thinking!
You also have to use some imagination here. In new home construction, simply build the
PVC pipes into the walls. In homes with a garage next to the house, access to the main attic can
usually be achieved through the garage roof and pipes can be concealed. Pipes can also be hidden
in larger 4" pipes or with a wood frame around the pipes for the short distance from the garage
roof to the main attic area. Plastic rain gutters can conceal pipes running up the side of a house.
Also, the pipes can be ran up to the attic in an out of the way or non-obtrusive location where it is
not necessary to hide them.
Experience indicates this will not be an issue in the majority of cases. Pool owners are
already used to electrical pipes, rain gutters and other pipes running up the outside of their homes.
Neatly installed pipes running vertically from the support system equipment area into the attic
through the eaves should be acceptable. They can then simply be painted to match the homes
exterior color. Actual installation conditions and consumer preferences will usually dictate what
has to be done.
Rigid CPVC 2" is recommended for increased flow and resistance to solar deterioration.
Also PVC pipe 1-1/2 or 2" can be used. Use 2” pipe if your pump is 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 hp. If larger,
consult a pool dealer. If outdoors, and PVC pipe is exposed to the sun, it should be painted to
prevent deterioration of the plastic. Flex PVC pipe manufacturers state that it sags at 150º F
temperatures and should only be used cautiously inside an attic. If the pipe will not drain down
automatically in the system, this lessens the flex PVC temperature due to the water inside the pipe.
Plumbing must be installed in accordance with state and local codes and good trade practices.
Experience has shown that a continuous length of flex PVC to and from the PCS1 in the
attic and extending outside of the eaves where it is connected to rigid PVC pipe is acceptable.
Rigid PVC pipe is used from this point throughout the rest of the support system. With the PCS1
installed in the attic, extended periods of high temperatures do not exist. Therefore, the flex PVC
pipe doesn't appear to suffer. Using flex PVC inside the attic also removes any PVC cement
activity, which can be done outside.
Roofs can be modified to accommodate the PCS1. A) By mounting the PCS1 at the end of
the house Vs inside the attic. B) By mounting within the roof itself in a waterproof way and
providing for condensate drain. NOTE:The objective is to allow the roof to function as a collector
and to pull heat from the inside of the roof and attic area. Once again, this is an area to use some
imagination and creativity. List 10 possibilities!
NO: Attics should be the main house attic with a square foot area equal to or greater than
that of the pool's. In addition, see attic selection criteria below to determine effectiveness of attic.
8. What are some attic selection criteria to consider?
Black roofs are better than white; non shaded roofs are better than shaded roofs; all power
ventilators must be disconnected; roof area should be at least two times pool area. i.e. 600 sq ft
pool= 1200 sq ft roof OR the ceiling area (sq ft of the attic) should be at least equal to or greater
than the pool's sq ft area; insulation level is not a critical factor; interior of roof should not be
insulated or lined with heat resistant material.