Common Questions

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21. How does the color of the roof affect performance?

The following factors give you an idea of how roof color affects heat. (See paragraph
below)

Black
Dark Blue
Blue
Dark Brown
Brown
Red
Green
Dark Grey
Grey
White
Smooth White

1.28
1.21
1.14
1.07
1.00
.86
.71
.71
.57
.57
.36

If good conditions exist for the pool, then just about any color of roof may be acceptable
with the PCS1, Flowreversal™ and the use of a blanket. This would be especially true on
relatively small pools (450 sq ft) and large roof areas. Grey, white, and smooth white may be
marginal on a large pool with an extremely small attic to draw from. The above factors can be
interpreted as follows: The PCS1 will perform nominally, or 1.00, with a Brown roof. Other
colors will increase or decrease relative performance; however, a large roof with a poor color factor
may out perform a smaller roof with a good color factor. Due to the solar radiation and BTU
availability. Larger numbers are better performers.

22. What are some environmental factors?

Outside blanketed pool & Flowreversal™
Outside blanketed pool
Screen & blanketed pool
Outside, blanketed & windy
Outside without blanket
Screen without blanket
Outside, without blanket & windy

2.00
1.00
.80
.67
.42
.33
.29

Water table(multiply above factors by)

.80

The above environmental factors show that the PCS1 will perform twice as good with
Flowreversal™ and a blanket. The larger the number, the better the conditions of performance
with the PCS1.
The dealer or purchaser is responsible for determining whether the
PCS1 is suited to a particular installation and operating environment.

23. Is there a simple test to determine if an attic will be good enough?

Yes, generally. Good attics run 20-30 degrees over outside ambient temperatures. On a 70º
F sunny day, find out what the temperature is inside the attic at its peak. Acceptable attics will be
90-100º F or higher. Take the test when the Sun is shining and between 1-4 PM in the day.
Power ventilators must be turned off the day before.

Some natural air vents or wind driven turbines may have to be shut off also. This test
assumes that Flowreversal™ [on 9-10 ft deep pools] and a blanket are used with the system and
that the attic is equal to or greater than the pool's surface size in square footage [Or, the roof itself
is two times the size of the pool in sq ft area].

Common Questions

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24. How is the PCS1 winterized?

In areas where the pool needs to be winterized, the PCS1 also needs to be winterized.
Winterize the pool as otherwise would be required. When blowing out the water from the support
system's pipes with air, cycle the bypass valve and blow out the water through the PCS1 also.

After the pump has been shut down and secured to prevent it from restarting, winterize the
PCS1 by first removing the inlet union on the top of the PCS1 and tilting the opposite side up two
inches to ensure all water is drained out of the bottom of the PCS1 coil through the outlet pipe.
Then remove the outlet union and add 1/2 gallon of non-toxic antifreeze to the bottom of the PCS1
coil. Reconnect both inlet and outlet unions. The PCS1 has been winterized. Now finish the
balance of the support system and pool winterization.

25. How is the PCS1 started up in the Spring?

Visually inspect the PCS1 for any signs of freeze damage caused by improper
winterization. Specifically inspect the bottom of the finned pipe area for any signs of damage. Do
this from the rear of the unit [finned side] and also from the front of the unit inspecting through the
protective screen. The side panel can be removed for an internal inspection if desired. Check the
inlet and outlet unions for proper connection and tightness. Do not over tighten PVC unions.

Open the pool up but leave the bypass valve and PCS1 off until the pool water is once
again clear visually, does not smell of chlorine and is potable [optimum chemically for swimming].
Once the algae growth, other debris, etc. has been removed and the pool is ready for swimming
chemically, then activate the PCS1. This procedure prevents the initial poor chemical environment
caused during the extended time being winterized from entering the PCS1 and reducing its
optimum life expectancy.

26. Is the PCS1 as efficient as a solar panel system?

The real question is: “Will the PCS1 work as well as a solar panel system on my house?”
On a roof where a properly sized solar panel system will work, the PCS1 will work better for two
reasons. First, the area of collector is more massive in the form of your roof. This means that
more solar energy will be available in the form of heat than could be expected from a solar panel
system [solar radiation radiates on more surface area]. Second, if installed with flowreversal™ as
specified, the pool will make better use of the heat put into it by being an efficient pool.
Remember: heat rises and 60-70% of the heat loss on your pool is directly from the surface of the
pool. It doesn’t make a lot of sense to heat water and put it into the top of the pool. With
flowreversal™, the heated water rises from the pool’s main drain making the pool an efficient user
of heat! SolarAttic offers a unique performance guarantee. SolarAttic guarantees that your system
will perform as good as or better than any solar panel system or we will buy it back. See the
company’s “Performance Guarantee.”

27. Why not just install the flowreversal™ valves and use a pool blanket?

You can. In fact, we supply the flowreversal™ valves for you along with instructions.
However, remember that the true function of a pool blanket is to minimize the surface heat losses
from the pool [not to supply heat to the pool]. With flowreversal™ you’ll find that your pool
performs better! Remember also that the pool blanket can require two people to place on and take
off. Or, a big “roller” at the end of the pool that constantly gets in your way. Any pool that can
produce an acceptable swimming environment with flowreversal™ and a pool blanket -- can
produce an even better swimming environment with the PCS1. You may even find out that little or
no use of the pool blanket is required except at the start or end of your season!

Common Questions

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28. My pool was just built; do I need the flowreversal™ valves?

Some newer pools are equipped with in floor circulation systems that provide a better
cleaning environment while allowing the heated water to rise from the bottom of the pool. Consult
with your pool contractor to determine if heated water can rise from the bottom of the pool. If it
can’t, we recommend that the flowreversal™ valves be installed.

29. I have an aboveground pool; do I need the flowreversal™ valves?

Aboveground pools can alter the plumbing pipes to allow the water to rise from the bottom
of the pool if desired. The flowreversal™ valves are not needed.

30. I want to replace my existing solar panel system; can I use the existing
controller?

Existing solar systems that still have a functional controller and bypass valve do not need
these components. We still recommend the flowreversal™ valves since most solar panel systems
will not have them installed with the system. Check with the installer of your solar panel system if
you have any questions.

31. How do I know if my pool pump can handle the additional “head”?

a) Determine the vertical distance from the pump to the PCS1 located in your attic; b) divide
this vertical distance by 2.31 to calculate the added pressure to the pump; c) add this additional
pressure to your existing pool’s pressure which can be usually read directly off of a filter pressure
gauge; d) ask your pool contractor if the pump installed will handle the total pressure [added lift].

An alternate approach is to use the existing pump and observe for any problems. If the
pump is inadequate, poor filtration will occur resulting in a “cloudy” pool [Note: this would be the
direct result of a dramatic reduction in the pool’s water flow rate]. Also the pump may cutoff due
to thermal overload. Repeated cutout of the pumps thermal breaker indicates the pump is too
small. Upgrading by 1/2 horsepower should do the job.

You cannot simply feel the side of the pump’s motor. The motor should normally be
running “too hot” to touch. If the pump was sized for filtration using a timer [less than 24 hours],
the pump is probably adequate in size to handle the lift to the PCS1. If the pump is running 24
hours a day [no timer], it may require upgrading. This latter case allows a pool contractor to install
a smaller pump to accomplish the same filtration needs that a larger pump will accomplish in less
time. Both approaches are used for a variety of technical reasons. In fact, it’s still argued [in the
industry] about which method results in the least amount of pump operating costs.

32. How can I lift the PCS1 into the attic?

One approach to the attic installation is the enlarged closet access [see question #3].
Assuming you have used this approach, install an eye bolt near the peak and use a one ton come
along or other pulley type of device to lift the PCS1 up into the attic. Be sure to center the lift and
use straps under the unit. See the installation manual for additional details.

33. How is the PCS1 delivered?

The PCS1 is shipped in a wooden crate that weighs 246-253 lbs. This crate must be
removed from a carrier’s truck, which can range from a small delivery truck to a semi trailer.
When the carrier calls, tell them you’ll need help removing the unit from the truck. Make sure they
have a lift gate and a dolly. This will make it easier to remove the unit from the truck. If no way